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A shirt forgives a centimetre or two. A suit jacket does not. The jacket is built on the shoulders, it has to sit correctly on a particular posture, and it is expensive to fix once cut. That is why men's tailoring splits into two jobs: numbers you can take yourself, and judgements a tailor makes by looking at you. This guide covers the numbers for a shirt, trousers and a jacket, and flags the parts where a tape is not enough.
Before you start
- Wear a thin, fitted shirt and trousers. Measuring over a sweater, jacket or heavy kurta measures the clothes.
- Stand barefoot for body measurements, then note the shoes you plan to wear with the trousers, because the hem depends on them.
- Stand naturally with your arms relaxed, feet a little apart, and breathe normally.
- Take each measurement twice. If the readings differ by more than a centimetre, take a third and use the middle one.
Shirt measurements
| Measurement | How to take it |
|---|---|
| Neck | Around the base of the neck where a collar sits, with one finger slipped under the tape. Give the neck measurement, not a collar size: tailors add their own ease |
| Chest | Around the fullest part of the chest, under the arms and straight across the shoulder blades. Tape level, arms relaxed |
| Waist | Around the natural waist, the narrowest part of the torso, breathing normally |
| Shoulder | Across the back from the bone at one shoulder edge to the other. Easiest with help |
| Sleeve length | From the shoulder bone, over a slightly bent elbow, to the wrist bone |
| Bicep | Around the fullest part of the upper arm, relaxed |
| Wrist (cuff) | Around the wrist bone, where the cuff will sit |
| Shirt length | From the base of the neck at the back down to where the hem should fall. For a shirt worn untucked it usually ends around mid-seat |
Trouser measurements
| Measurement | How to take it |
|---|---|
| Waist | Where the trouser will actually sit, at the navel or lower on the hip. The number changes with the position, so measure at that spot |
| Hip or seat | Around the fullest part of the seat, feet together |
| Thigh | Around the fullest part of the upper thigh, just below the crease of the seat |
| Rise | From the crotch seam up to the waist, measured from the side while seated, or on a trouser that fits you well. It decides comfort and where the waist sits |
| Inseam | From the crotch straight down the inside of the leg to the ankle bone |
| Outseam | From the waist down the outside of the leg to where the hem should fall, in the shoes you will wear |
| Bottom (hem opening) | The width of the trouser at the hem. Mostly a style choice: slim, straight or wide |
Rise is the measurement people skip and then regret. A low rise sits on the hips, a mid rise sits near the navel and a high rise sits above it. Two trousers with the same waist and inseam fit completely differently if their rise differs, so tell your tailor which you prefer, or hand over a pair that feels right.
Suit jacket measurements
| Measurement | How to take it |
|---|---|
| Chest | Around the fullest part of the chest, in a thin shirt, arms relaxed |
| Waist | Around the natural waist. The gap between chest and waist shapes how fitted the jacket is |
| Shoulder | Bone to bone across the back. The most important number on a jacket, and the hardest to alter later |
| Sleeve length | From the shoulder bone to the wrist bone. A jacket sleeve usually stops a little short of the wrist so a small amount of shirt cuff shows |
| Jacket length | From the base of the neck at the back down to where the hem should fall, commonly around the bottom of the seat |
Measure a jacket or shirt that already fits
Lay your best-fitting jacket flat with the front closed. Measure across the chest just under the armpits and double it, then measure shoulder seam to seam, sleeve length from the shoulder seam to the cuff, and the length from the collar seam to the hem. It is the most dependable cross-check you can do, and tailors can copy a cut they can see and hold.
Fit, fittings and sizes
- Tell the tailor the fit you want. Slim, regular and relaxed use different amounts of ease, which is the extra room that lets you move. The same body measurements make three different garments.
- A size label is not a measurement. A jacket marked 40 usually refers to a chest of 40 inches, but cuts differ between brands. Give numbers, not a size.
- Ask how many fittings are included. A suit typically needs at least two: one when the jacket is roughly assembled and one to check the corrections. Fixing a problem at the first fitting is far cheaper than after the jacket is finished.
- Plan the time. Good tailoring cannot be rushed. Work back from the date you need it, using our wedding outfit timeline.
Kurta pyjama and sherwani
For a kurta you need the shirt measurements plus the length you want, and for the pyjama or churidar you need waist, hip, length, thigh, knee and bottom. A sherwani takes the same set and is cut more like a jacket, so it needs the same shoulder care. See sherwani stitching cost in Delhi for what drives the price and how long to allow.
Get measured in about a minute
Two photos from your phone, spoken instructions, nothing uploaded. Your tailor confirms the numbers with a tape.
Measure me, freeFor the full list of measurements and a tape-by-tape walkthrough, see how to take body measurements at home. To budget for the work, see tailoring charges in Delhi.
Frequently asked questions
What is rise in trousers?
Rise is the distance from the crotch seam up to the waistband. A low rise sits on the hips, a mid rise near the navel and a high rise above it. It decides comfort and where the waist falls, so two trousers with the same waist and inseam can fit very differently.
What does a size 40 jacket mean?
It usually refers to a chest measurement of 40 inches (about 102 cm), but cuts differ between brands and tailors. For made-to-measure work, give actual measurements rather than a size.
How much sleeve should show below the jacket?
A jacket sleeve normally stops a little short of the wrist bone so a small amount of shirt cuff shows, traditionally around a centimetre or so. Your tailor will set it to suit your arm and your shirt cuffs.
How many fittings does a suit need?
At least two after the first measurement: one when the jacket is roughly assembled and one to check the corrections. Some tailors add a third for complex jackets. Ask how many are included before you agree a price.
Should I measure over a shirt?
Measure in a thin, fitted shirt for jacket measurements. Measuring over a sweater, a jacket or a heavy kurta measures the clothes instead of you.